BIBLIOTHECA A MAGAZINE CURATED BY #20 PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI - A MAGAZINE V.A. (TW668)

Publisher : A MAGAZINE

softcover / 248 pages / 230 x 295 mm / color, black and white / 2019

 

Since stepping into a singular spotlight at Valentino in 2016, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s vision has become a beacon for purity, optimism and extravagance in the fashion world. His determined effort to break down haute couture’s archaic hierarchies of colour and class are a testimony to a grounded, humanist approach to his vocation. He challenges tradition on the runway and off, balancing the intangible quest for sublime beauty that occupies so many creatives with a curious, nonchalant air and the undivided attention and support of his Roman atelier. The results reverberate near and far, touching not only the privileged few fortunate to witness his work first-hand, but countless others who will only ever dream of haute couture onscreen or on the printed page.

In this issue, Rome takes the lead with Pierpaolo as its worthy partner; we become mere spectators as the two dance amongst the city’s hidden gems and majestic clichés. Prefacing his reflections on classicism and a stark contemporary romance, a new still-life portfolio by Joel Meyerowitz exposes Pierpaolo’s confidential cahiers des défilés – the stream-of-consciousness ‘mood books’ the designer incessantly fills with the inspiring material that both informs and results from each collection. Replete with their Valentino red rubber band, they inspire our cover.

Peppered throughout the subsequent pages, a visual essay by American photographer Charles H. Traub documents the faces and places of Pierpaolo’s Rome through his uniquely candid lens – spanning all the way from Valentino’s headquarters by the Spanish Steps to the sandy beaches of Pierpaolo’s hometown of Nettuno, itself a seaside extension of the rambling, eternal city. The late Luigi Ghirri spoke of Traub’s work as though of a mirror: ‘You see our foibles, strip us bare, make love through the camera and then venerate us.’ The same could be said of the magazine’s closing triumph: forty-four studio portraits photographed by Pierpaolo himself between Paris and Rome– an homage to Steven Meisel and a tribute to his friend Franca Sozzani. Their common thread is a bright pink feathered hat, a playful symbol of eleganza that unites each subject as they pose for Pierpaolo: a husband, a father, a co-worker, a dressmaker and a friend.

Dan Thawley, Editor in Chief

2004年ベルギー、アントワープで創刊された雑誌『A Magazine』の第20号。「アントワープ・シックス(Antwerp Six)」と呼ばれる、ベルギー人ファッションデザイナーのグループの一人であり、また教育者でもあるウォルター・ヴァン・ベイレンドンク(Walter Van Beirendonck)によって生まれ、毎号著名なデザイナーをキュレーターにとして招き、シーズンごとに新しいコレクションを作るように誌面で表現されてきている。

今号は、VALENTINOのディレクターを務めるイタリア人ファッションデザイナー、ピエールパオロ・ピッチョーリ (Pierpaolo Piccioli)が担当する。そのビジョンは、ファッション界における純粋さや楽観性、多様性の道標となっている。オートクチュールの古風なヒエラルキーを打ち破るための彼の努力は、自身の職業に対する地に足のついたヒューマニスト的なアプローチの証となっている。本誌では、アトリエを構えるローマという都市を主役にし、彼をそのパートナーとして、ジョエル・マイヤーウィッツ(Joel Meyerowitz)が写し、我々が観客となる。また、他にフォトグラファーのチャールズ・H・トラウブ(Charles H. Traub)によるビジュアルエッセイが掲載されている。